Since the widespread popularity of youtube and the natural hair community, a lot of women have quite rightly put away that the old notion ‘black hair does not grow’ as a myth.
Even so, slow growing hair may in fact be more common amongst black people than you may think. The “average” rate of 6 inches a year will usually be more a dream than a guarantee.
Our analysis of a study on hair growth rates in black people, demonstrates this very phenomenon that many people of African descent average only about 4 inches of hair growth per year.
Although not a conclusive voice on the subject, I have also seen this slow growth phenomenon in my own hair. I too only get 4 inches per year which is slower than the “agreed average”.
You see, at the beginning of my natural hair journey I colored my hair yearly, usually it was just golden brown highlights or a block of color at the top only. With this routine, I was always able to see how much growth I got in a year by measuring the black hair that had grown in at the roots. I can’t think of a more accurate way of measuring your growth rate where breakages does not play much of a factor.
Anyway after determining my slow growth, this translated to being perfectly aware of how careful I had to be in my regimen in order to retain every millimeter I could. Trust me, when you have slow hair growth, every millimetre counts!
Of course I don’t claim to have the perfect regimen but there are a few things that I have learned as a slow grower that I would like to share with you. Here they are in no particular order.
1. Don’t blindly follow other people’s trimming schedules
I saw a video once where a lady with long thick hair was doling out hair advice. Among other things, one of her points was to trim about 3/4 of an inch of hair every other month.
While that advice was clearly working wonders for her and her thick hair, if I was to adopt that part of her regimen, it would equate to me trimming 4.5 inches off every year. I would literally end the year ½ inch shorter than where I began! Nope.
My advice is to dust your ends from time to time, if you don’t know, dusting your ends means just micro trimming the very ends of your hair, this will largely remove most split and damaged ends. Leave any major trims for when you are reviewing your growth (once or twice a year) but even then only when necessary.
Remember that the point of trimming is to get rid of damaged ends, but if you are not causing much damage to your hair, then the need for trims reduces too. Which brings me nicely to my next tip.
2. Protective style like crazy
I can’t overstate this enough. MANIPULATION, not heat, not chemicals, sulfates or silicones will the the death of your hair growth dreams. I would love to tell you that you can grow it long while enjoying playing in your hair throughout your journey but that would be disingenuous of me. I once heard it said that you should not try to be extra cute during the length retention phase.
Many of us have neither the time nor the energy to devote hours at the weekend to detangling errant strands in small sections. And even if you are extra careful, some degree of breakage will still occur with weekly detangling.
The only way to ensure that you are retaining more than you grow is to reduce the number of times you manipulate your hair. This means long term protective styling, until you reach your goal length.
And since these days many like to describe any random updo as a protective style, I would like to be clear that I mean LONG TERM protective styles. This is a style that does not require you to comb, brush or manipulate your hair in any way for weeks or months on end. So box braids, cornrows, sew ins, twists and other such styles qualify as long term protective. Wigs* themselves do not really qualify as long term protective, neither do updos, ponytails, puffs or twist outs.
Blessedfrom Above says
There are a lot of solutions…
Mary says
Hair growth rate isn’t a feeling. Either it is or isn’t. Mine grows at different rates. The looser texture grows at the average rate. As it gets kinkier, the rate slows with the kinkiest sections averaging approximately 1/4 a mo. It grows this way even while in protective styles. The only thing that speeds up the slow growth is regular scalp massages using essential oils mixed with a carrier oil. Then the rate almost evens out.
Veronica Ramos says
What are they if you do not mind telling me
Ni-Ni Henderson says
I know mine doesn’t grow at a slow rate. Other people can’t help it no matter what they do.
Joann Soldieroflove Reed says
I need to know too please
Natural Sista Katrina says
mines grow fairly decent, but my hair eats up moisture and the dryness causes breakage, this is probably the main reason I don’t see much growth.. but I’ll just be patient
Prisca Sienkiewicz says
nothing…. you cannot beat genetic. beauty is not synonym with long hair …healthy is more important
KESH says
I think proper moisturization and healthy diet is key. Black hair is the driest. Without moisture, no matter how much protective styling or exotic products we use, our hair will NOT grow.
Abby says
I think it will always be a combination of various factors – diet (most important), protective styling, use of right products and being fairly consistent with your hair care routine to encourage growth. It is not rocket science but it is something that you have to sort of play by ear to see what method works (based on your hair type and your hair styling habits).
irynne says
Nice tip…but i guess it doesn’t work for everyone. I am so frustrated with my hair 4C hair almost giving up…following tips to the core but my hair isn’t growing instead its tinting, becoming more coarse and shorter by the day. Need daily handholding..does BHI have challenge tips for a specific period.
Jason Chan says
I think that hair growth varies from person to person. It is different for every individual. I personally suggest to just eat healthy in order to feed your hair the nutrients that it needs. And do not neglect the scalp. It has a very important relationship with hair growth and will definitely affect the rate at which your hair grows.
joyce says
Finding the right balance of moisture/protein is the key. Daily or at least 3 times a week scalp massages will help hair grow longer. The problem is retention. To retain hair keep it moisturized.
Theresa says
No matter the situation all hair grows even when it’s damaged, it’s the overall health of the scalp and hair that makes the difference in your length. Genetics plays a role too.
melba prevot says
I do believe moisture is the key to black hair growing long fast. When I wore a curl my hair grew extremely long.
manda says
That maybe true but everything dosent work for everyone,,,,Im gonna agree with the viewers…. my hair breaks & it become shorter by tha day instead of growing …. I NEED GREAT ADVICE !!!!!!…..WHAT SHOULD I DO????????????
Woodyni says
I’m not sure about my growth rate but all I knows is I gain 0.4 inch/month if I follow a “classic” routine: moisturize every other day – shampoo/deep conditioning once a week.
I gain 0.6 to 1.2 inch/month (depending on the area) if I follow an “extremely strict” routine : moisturize twice a day – shampoo/deep cond. once a week or every 10 days – wearing cornrows and nothing else!!! (well, i still can put a wig on top of my head but my real hair has to be cornrowed. That’s the only way i found to avoid matted hair at the roots, tangled strands and knots at the ends).
Being lazy or wearing synthetic braids/twists for a long period (eg 4 weeks) is simply suicidal for me…
@Manda: what you should do depends on your current hair routine, your life style, your overall health and of course, the current state of your hair…
Mesha Coleman says
Every protective style (braids and weaves) have damaged my hair more than help with growth. Usually it thins it and pulls it out around the edges. I’m a wash and go girl with low manipulation. Not really sure what I’m doing wrong. I rarely wear it down often mostly up in a pineapple style. Recently the texture changed after being natural over 5 years. Just lost..,
Annette Logan Heyward says
Im new to this natural hair(1yr) journey and it has been more work then my relaxer. Im going to try until my 2 yr mark and hopefully i have it down pack by then.
Cb Sampson says
MOISTURIZE AND PROTECTIVE STYLES
Estelle Holder Harildstad says
i am not sure that a slow growth can be accelerated unless you take some hair vitamins to help mother nature
Mikresha Turner says
Elisha Chevy Gal Barbee Jacqueline Doss Amy Jernigan
Ashtynne Hopkins says
Christine Pdn
Aliyah Morrison says
I Agree my front and sides goes faster and the mid and back of my hair grows slower . I have only been natural 10 months. I measured my hair after 10 months the front was over 5 inches when stretched the sides were a little longer . The back measured under 5 inches when stretched . I think another problem was that I recently got a big trim to the middle and back of my hair when I went to the salon one time to get it roller set . So some parts of my hair grows average to above average and some grows slow . Uugh hate the awkward stage length .
tO2OAmAzon says
I had trouble with moisture when I first started in February. Dry hay hair is what I called it. I discovered oil rinsing and stopped shampooing unless necessary. I used sulfate shampoo but if there was build up I use ACV with honey. I spray my hair with Infusium 23 leave in conditioner. I’m also prescribed Minoxidil for an ailment. The side effect of it is outrageous hair growth EVERYWHERE. My face gets covered lile a werewolf. The drugs side effect is why its used in topical Rogaine. People this stuff GROWS HAIR. I cut all of my perm ends off in October. My twists were to my nose and I cut them to mid forehead. They are now past my nose. Its the Minoxidil.
Madison says
Ladies, I would suggest you try the maximize hydration method. Look it up. It works.
On screen I'm Nifa Dean says
I found that taking silica topped up the vitamins I needed to grow my hair half an inch a month for 4 months. I took a 2 month break and my hair didn’t grow at all. Then I went back on silica and I got an inch a month for 2 months straight. Hair growth isn’t an exact science, and average growth rates etc don’t always apply to all people. I’ve decided to stop focusing on length so much and focus on health more. Although I will continue to take silica for 2 months and have 1 month rest until I’m ready to BC.
margaret victoria gordon says
hormonal changes hair growth . so does stress poor diet med. so each person have to see what the problem is and then address the cause .
Leigh1405 says
I’ve had slow growth since I was in elementary school. It is why I get one hairstyle for a phase and get happy with it. It ain’t gonna change for a while.