The amino acid arganine has been tested and shown to have a very high affinity to hair when applied in a simple aqueous solution but uptake reduces dramatically in the form of a conditioner, maybe due to interactions with other ingredients (this probably explains why aphogee two step protein treatment* is a thin liquid). Unfortunately I cannot find any references in cystine on it’s own being tested on hair.
On the subject on Aphogee two step, it lists hydrolyzed animal protein as it’s second ingredients, again I cannot find a credible reference as to which amino acids it is comprised of but it’s very likely that cystine is one of them. This is further it testament to the fact that a lot of relaxed ladies have had such success growing their hair when they use aphogee in the wash following the relaxer application. Clearly they are replenishing their hair’s reduced amino acids which increases tensile strength hence less breakage. A coincidence? I don’t think so!
So apart from Aphogee*, which products should work well in restoring cystine levels in hair? There isn’t a great deal in the literature directly relating to cystine but from my research, products containing wheat and keratin amino acids will usually contain cystine too but since they come in the form of a conditioner, it is unclear how much is actually absorbed by the hair.
There has also been the introduction of a new Brazilian straightening system that uses cysteine instead of keratin with the idea that cysteine is more easily absorbed into the hair so does not require formaldehyde or multiple passes with a flat iton to ‘fix’ it like the keratin treatment does. It also claims to work on afro hair with a few applications needed to give you a ‘relaxed look’. I’m holding out on an opinion on that until I see further evidence.
Originally posted 2012-04-30 19:00:23.